Welcome to the second episode of the second season of Fratello Talks! As we dive into the new year, we’re revisiting age-old discussions, and today, we unravel the myth of the perfect watch size. Hosted by Nacho, joined by RJ and Thomas, we delve into the realm of horological proportions. Is there truly an ideal watch size? Our consensus: unlikely. Numerous variables, encompassing thickness, lug-to-lug distance, case shape, and wearer’s wrist dimensions and profile, render the concept elusive. Ultimately, the key lies in experimentation, as trying diverse timepieces unveils unexpected wearability. What appears disproportionate on paper may surprise in reality. Let’s embark on this exploration of proportions and dispel size-related dogmas, but first, a glance at our wrist companions.  

We commence with RJ, sporting his 36mm replica Rolex Day-Date ref. 18238. Though modest in dimensions, it exudes a presence surpassing its size, particularly compared to the Explorer, which RJ favors in the 39mm variant. For the Datejust or Day-Date, 36mm emerges as RJ’s preferred choice.

Next, Thomas flaunts the IWC Big Pilot’s Watch 43 ref. IW329301. Straddling the larger end of the spectrum, Thomas found surprising comfort in its 43mm guise. While the 46mm Big Pilot veered into unwieldy territory, the “Little Big Pilot” won Thomas over with its allure.

Concluding our trio, Nacho opts for a stark contrast from last week’s Breitling behemoth, adorning his wrist with a 1961 Omega Seamaster, measuring a dainty 34.5mm. Exuding vintage charm and character, it’s paired with an OEM beads-of-rice bracelet or today, a taupe Epsom leather strap from the Fratello Shop.

The Illusion of Ideal Watch Size

In the realm of timepieces, diversity reigns supreme. Yet, discussions often veer towards prescriptive notions regarding size, dictating what’s acceptable and what’s not. The mantra of “too big” or “too small” echoes incessantly. Yet, amidst the cacophony, lies subjectivity. Watch size emerges as a matter of personal preference, transcending objective standards. While proportionality offers a semblance of objectivity, designs intended for a larger presence merit appreciation in their intended form. Avoiding the pitfalls of ill-conceived iterations, such as the Panerai Due, is prudent.

In essence, when in doubt, don’t underestimate the power of a trial. If a timepiece resonates with you, disregard fleeting trends. After all, trends ebb and flow cyclically, ensuring your alignment with fashion periodically.

What are your insights on replica watch size? Do you subscribe to its subjectivity, or do you believe in a singular ideal? Share your perspectives in the comments below, and stay tuned for another enlightening episode of Fratello Talks next week.

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This year, Longines hit the 1-9-0 mark. Yes, the Saint-Imier-based company will be 190 years old by 2022, showing no signs of slowing down. First came the Spirit Zulu Time GMT, launched in March this year with a local jumping hour hand and an impressive sub-3,000 price tag. A few months later, Longines launched the high-jump Ultra-Chron Diver, setting a new in-house chronometer standard. Last week, Longines unveiled its most definitive anniversary edition, the new 190th anniversary model of the Master Collection.  
The Longines Master Collection 190th Anniversary Edition collection consists of three three-hand replica watches from the company’s Master Collection, all with the same overall design and in three different case metals: stainless steel, 18-carat yellow gold and 18-carat pink gold. This overall design is a powerful one that takes advantage of the traditional formal ambience with the addition of Breguet-style numerals on a dateless dial with a brushed finish and vintage Longines logo, a blue handset, and a slim, smoothly rounded and polished 40 mm by 9.35 mm case.
Longines may have quietly had the best year of any Swiss watchmaker. That may sound exaggerated, but it’s hard to imagine any other company doing so much. Longines released a crowd-pleaser (the Zulu Time GMT), established a new chronometer rating with its Super Chronometer certificate, and now one of the most beautiful dress watches of the year.
The Longines Master Collection 190th Anniversary Edition is one of the most beautiful dress watches of the year. Breguet numerals are reminiscent of fake watches like the recently released Naoya Hida NH Type 1B. Still, I remember seeing Longines use a similar etching style (on different Arabic numerals) on a 1930’s pocket copy watch sold at the HODINKEE store a few years ago. Whatever your reference, this is a classic look that emphasizes texture while remaining completely readable.
Would I have liked it better if the 190th anniversary model of the Master Collection had been placed in a smaller 36mm or 38mm case? Then, of course. But other than that, it’s hard to have an opinion on the new release. It’s on the larger side, but I wouldn’t describe it as “lacking in size”, as the thin sub-10mm case will ensure it fits most modern wrists.
One hundred and ninety years seems a bit of an odd anniversary. Still, if it turns out to be as attractive and reasonably priced as the new steel offerings from the Master Collection, I’m already looking forward to what Longines’ 191st birthday will bring.

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Tudor has expanded its popular Black Bay Fifty-Eight collection of dive watches. The latest addition is a blue version with a manufacturing movement and a modestly sized 39mm case that already won the “Challenge” fake watch award at last November’s Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève. How did Tudor’s new creation perform in our tests?
The Tudor brand has been trendy in recent years and can look back on a steadily growing fan base. Rolex’s second brand had been stagnant for years, but since 2009, Tudor has been picking up speed again. Tudor’s history, rich in character and design, is emphasized in the brand’s new vintage models. 2012 saw the introduction of the Heritage Black Bay, which looks back at Tudor’s early dive watches. Its debut was followed in 2018 by the debut of the smaller Black Bay Fifty-Eight. The blue version we are testing here was unveiled in 2020.
The name “Fifty-Eight” refers to 1958, the year in which TUDOR launched its first dive watch, the Reference 7924, known as the “Big Crown”. The new watch has a diameter of 39 mm, which corresponds to the case size of the historical model. In other respects as well, this new version, at first glance, actually looks like a vintage replica watch, an antique watch. Thanks to the rotating bezel and the smaller dial, it even looks somewhat refined.
The vintage impression is further accentuated by the domed, scratch-resistant sapphire crystal, which has highly curved edges, just like the acrylic crystals of models from previous decades. The dial is also slightly raised like the face of a classic vintage watch. The narrow lugs and the lettering on the rota-table bezel also allude to TUDOR’s history. The designer even chose to omit the date display, thus completing the historical impression.
Old Tudor divers’ replica watches with the so-called “snowflake” hands have already made a name for themselves and are eagerly sought after at auctions. The nickname derives from the squares at the tips of the hour and second hands: each is rotated 45 degrees, somewhat like a stylized snowflake. This detail first appeared on the tips of the hands in the late 1960s and has been retained ever since.
Further high-quality features of the manufacturing movement are its extremely long power reserve of 70 hours and its free-wheeling balance wheel with four adjustment screws. These screws mean that there is no need to fine-tune the speed by varying the active length of the hairspring, as is the case with ETA movements.

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Owners of permanent calendars finally got a chance to see their watches in action today, as their date is shown ahead of February 29.So much has happened in the past month as the COVID-19 epidemic has swept the world and made people nervous. We have seen major events and exhibitions cancelled or postponed around the world. This month, we came close to a number of interesting replica watches, including pure gold G-Shock, Undone’s new lineup of Undone Sport Watches, and Undone batman watches. 
From around the web, we turn our attention to an unfinished George Daniels watch. This epic watch, if completed, would have featured a 60-second tourbillon, remontoir d’egalite, and a co-axial escapement. We also investigate the history of the helium escape valve. Although it is closely associated with Rolex, some believe it was actually developed in conjunction with Doxa. Finally, let’s talk about the Bardacke’s Nautilus. Is this watch hype, or is it as great as it was made?
Some watches are slow burners. These are watches that are neglected when they are launched and are only appreciated later — often when it’s too late. An example is the Rolex Explorer II Ref. 16570. It really lives up to its name, coming in a 40mm Oyster case and featuring a GMT complication with a fixed 24-hour bezel. Amazingly, the watch was in production for over two decades, starting in 1989 and ending sometime in 2011. However, it wasn’t until the last three years or so, when people finally began to appreciate its low-key elegance and beauty, these watches started to catch on. 
G-Shocks should be tough and cheap. Some might think of them as vaguely disposable watches, which is why the G-Shock G-D5000-9JR is unlike any other G-Shock watch. It’s made totally out of 18k yellow gold and, as a result, costs a cool $70,000. It goes against the key tenets of what makes a G-Shock a G-Shock. But that’s what makes it such a cool fake watch — a watch that will go down in G-Shock history forever. Recently, we had the opportunity to open a box.
Last year, Seiko shook up the entry-level mechanical watch industry with two major announcements: the end of the popular SKX series and the release of a new Seiko 5 sports watch line. This is big news, because Seiko 5 is the beginning of many people’s journey with watches. What’s more, Seiko has no fewer than 28 new models of the dial and bezel colors, the finish of the watch case, and the straps are different.

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The replica Cartier Tank is always available in a really confused range of variations and sub-variations over the years since it was first known to all in 1917, and yet shocked enough almost none of those variants make use of skeletonized, or openworked, movements. Of course, the fake Cartier has sold a large number of openworked pocket and wristwatches over the years, but it was not until the introduction of the Tank Louis Cartier Noctambule in 2004 that an openworked Tank appeared. This was followed by the Tank MC Skeleton, in 2013, and then the Tank LC Sapphire Skeleton in 2014, which was widely critically praised and generally taken as a very successful outing. 
The Tank Cintree has appeared in some different variations over the years, but the very dramatically elongated case has never before held an openworked caliber, and the reason why is probably that so as to get a pleasing effect, you really do need a rectangular movement that fits the case well, and which follows the curvature of the case. In earlier models you would have probably found either a round movement or a standard-issue rectangular or tonneau movement drawn from a movement supplier’s existing inventory; such an extreme movement shape would not have been part of any movement supplier’s standard catalogue and would have been expensive to produce for a single watch – maybe prohibitively so. However, the new Tank Cintree Skeleton has a movement specifically intended for the purpose, with much more satisfying results than would have been possible with a supplied caliber.
The minutes track is basically a modified rectangle and as you can see, the movement created for the openworked Cintree – caliber 9917 MC – uses that minute track as the structural basis for the hand-wound movement.
Generally speaking, the fake Cartier does very nicely design-wise by their custom openworked movements and the arrangement of the components in the Cintree Skeleton is both logical and beautiful. Everything is held in place by the minute-track shaped upper bridge and lower plate, which also doubles as the dial. The mainspring barrel is the dominant upper element, with the motion works and hands in the center, and the balance held in place at 6:00.
The case is quite long across its longest dimensions – it’s a 46.30mm x 23mm x 7.96mm replica watch, but thanks to the curvature of the case and movement it’s quite wearable. As we mentioned in our initial coverage, the Cintree Skeleton is going to be available in three versions – the pink gold model you see here; a platinum model; and a platinum and diamond model (100 of the pink gold and platinum watches, and 25 of the diamond-set model).
As you can see, despite the 46.30mm lug-tip-to-lug-tip distance, it makes a quite elegant presentation on the wrist and of course you get the added interest of wearing one of only four openworked Tanks that have ever been made over the last 100 years. It would be an awful lot of fun to have this guy, the openworked Crash, and the Tank Sapphire Skeleton all in one’s watch rotation – expensive, sure, but interesting.

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There’s no escaping that vintage reissues are a part of the top replica watch collection landscape, now being a ‘key pillar’ for many replica brands, and guessing what they’re going to pull out of the archives is always a fun game. So Andy and I polished off the crystal ball and had a stab at what we’re going to see at SIHH and Baselworld 2018. 
Andy: The fake Omega Flightmaster is one of those replica watches that was made for such a short period of time (about four years) that you really wonder what happened. It was a pretty meaningful watch for Omega, being the last time they specifically developed a movement for pilots. Now that we live in an age where practicality doesn’t really matter, the Flightmaster is due for a comeback, and I think it’s going to happen.
Felix: All eyes will be on Breitling in 2018, thanks to their new major-domo, Georges Kern. The general consensus is that it’s a brand with an unbelievable history and back catalogue that’s ripe for reissue, something the flying B has been slow to exploit. Given Kern’s previous form at the fake IWC, I expect that’s all about to change, and I’m excited to see what that change looks like.
Andy: Over the past few decades we’ve seen much tweaking on the original. Now I’m not saying I love faux-patina, but there is no surprise if we see a Navitimer released with a faux-tropical dial, and some creamy lume – which is obviously how brands let us know it’s a reissue.
Felix: The tag Heuer Bund is a cult non-automotive Heuer that’s surely due for a comeback. Originally made in the ’60s and ’70s, it was designed for use by for military pilots, notably the German Air Force. It has a hot military look and a backstory that marketing departments drool over, but my only concern is it might serve as a distraction for TAG Heuer’s laser-like focus on their current darling, the Autavia. Likelihood: 7/10 
Andy: Universal Geneve have been asleep for quite a while. I think their last release was a limited Compax back in 2008. Imagine how great it would be to see them hit the fairs in 2018 with an authentic and perfectly executed Aero-Compax. It’s an interesting one with some military provenance. There must be a reason UG have kept their office doors open, and website live, all these years. And they’d have to be across the outrageous prices their highly desirable vintage pieces now sell for.
Felix: Earlier this year IWC released a tweaked version of their Mark XVIII, the ‘Tribute to Mark XI’, with a dial and handset that’s a faithful to the historic military piece. Next year I’d like to see the replica IWC take it one step further, launching a version of this replica watch motivated by the RAAF-issued fake watches.

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If never took part in the bandwagon yet, then it’s time to get on board. Because buying pre-owned luxury watches is the savvier way to shop. Why? However, for two main reasons really.
Of course, the first and most obvious one is the price. Depending on the model, pre-owned replica Rolex watches can cost less than half of what they would cost at retail. This is huge considering that luxury watches such as replica Rolex are built to last over several generations. So even if that watch is a few decades old, if it was taken care of sufficiently well, it’ll continue to run and look great for many more years.
A top watch find in the secondary market is what is referred to as New Old Stock or NOS for short. NOS is fantastic because these are actually new pieces in that they’ve never been worn, but old, because they’re discontinued models. As a result, buyers are essentially picking up a new timepiece for a fraction of the cost. NOS Rolex watches, in particular, are snapped up fast.
Now here comes the best part. Once you’ve bought that pre-owned luxury watch, its value typically won’t decrease much more. The strongest hit to a watch’s value is straight out of the authorized dealer since it’s no longer new. But after that, once the pre-owned price is established, as long as the watch remains in satisfactory condition, it’ll retain most of its value. However, sometimes, the value of pre-owned luxury replica watches can actually increase. This depends on trends in the market, auction results, and what the brands themselves are doing. For instance, ever since the replica Rolex unveiled the Cyclops on the new Sea-Dweller, there’s been an uptick in discontinued Sea-Dweller models without the magnification lens. 
Vintage refers to timepieces that are at least 30 years old. Contemporary watches, on the other hand, are the current watches that are available at ADs. And everything in between—those watches which aren’t quite 30 years old and are no longer offered by the brand—are discontinued models. And it’s this discontinued models segment that tends to provide the best value.
A huge trend in collecting circles is buying Rolex watches that were made the same year an owner was born. Naturally, the only place to source these Birth Year Watches are in the pre-owned luxury watch market. What has been your favorite find in the pre-owned amazing watches market so far?

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When others have been lusting lately after Paul Newman’s Paul Newman Daytona in the watch world, I have been dreaming about a different watch. Don’t get me wrong, Paul Newman’s Paul Newman is likely to be the most luxurious collectible watch, almost by definition. After all, Paul Newmans are a big reason we even have a vintage Rolex market to begin with, but for me there is another watch on the market that speaks to my soul far more than the Daytona. What I am going to talk about is a Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis’ Cartier Tank replica watch.
Much like Paul Newman’s Paul Newman, Jackie’s (yes, in my mind we are now on a first name basis) Cartier Tank is not so much about the watch itself, but the person and time that it represents. Newman, a ruggedly handsome and salt-of-the-earth kind of guy, wore his Daytona daily and casually, before gifting it to his daughter’s boyfriend. He used it for the purpose of telling time, and timing his car races (because that is what replica watches are actually for). At the same time, Jackie O. likely wore her watch as a means to tell time, for sentimental reasons, and well, since it looked great with her oversized glasses and pillbox hats. 
It is known to all that the fake Cartier Tank is one of the most elegant watch designs of all time, and is possibly one of the most recognized timepieces – all this making it one of the most iconic timepieces ever produced. In turn, what’s more, Jackie O. is one of the most iconic women to ever exist. As a matter of fact, some (cough, me) could argue that she is the most iconic woman to ever exist, which makes this watch, her watch, the most iconic ladies’ watch ever.
The watch itself is exactly what am looking for. Petite and Patinated, this fake Cartier Tank has the familiar glow and nostalgic feel of your grandmother’s gold jewelry. It is clear that she wore it often. The case is compact, measuring 20mm wide by 28mm long. The corners have been smoothed down and the cabochon sapphire crown is in the more traditional shape for the Tank, which was unusual for that time period, as Cartier replica was experimenting with more geometric crown shapes.
The dial is common silver with fat, black Roman numerals and blued steel hands. It is signed Cartier France on the dial and on the caseback, as well as the case number 44374. While this would usually imply the watch was sold in Paris, it was in fact sold in the New York boutique in 1962, which is further confirmed by the OYP import stamp on the manual-winding movement. Thus it goes without saying that this watch was an incredible thing to hold and to see. It is incredibly rare to come across a timepiece that belonged to someone like Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis, let alone put it on my wrist.

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